reels

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 65 total)
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  • #14125
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    A sweet golf shot,

    me too, I use 16ft rods and tica cybernetics, matched with a gentle lob….. 60-70 meters, this works well on the beach I like to fish :wink:

    #14415
    Wilderness
    Participant

    Fishforpot, what a load of dribble, just from reading your post in regards to distance its obvious you have no idea. How far are you casting bro 12 miles? 15? im thinking before you go fishing you should ring the japenese government and get the buggers to clear the run way as your lead is there way, dont want any planes flying in your air space? or do you find that when you go fishing the sinker goes around the world and hits you in the back of the head?

    There are a number of elements involved with distance casting. Your points are a bit off base.

    #14429
    fishforpot
    Participant

    You may be right ..some of the points may be slightly off base in general …….but for me , the tweaks work

    With the casting technique I use , pure grunt lol …..they eliminate any chance of a mishap ….giving 100% confidence that I can just rip the shit out of the cast and never snap off …

    I did however snap the top section of my rod in half at Pendarves one day …what a noise that made lol …..no doubt there was some damage to the rod that helped …..but was still bloody funny ……

    And I dont think Japan need worry about my casting lmao ….
    137 mtrs in the park was my longest , 2 mock baits , and 12lb mainline which is what I normally use ….no wind assistance ……100-120 confortably
    But its only any help when fishing the likes of Spencers park , or Amberly middle of the day

    Harder on a sloping beach of course , but an offshore wind would go a ways to offsetting that …

    rdeejay is the only caster Ive seen who would be out beside mine , should we be trying to fish way way out ….his technique is beautiful …loading the rod to perfection with apparant effortless ease ….
    His rod is 3 feet longer than mine tho , but he’s a big mofo so can work that bad boy lol ……his line would be maybe 24lb maybe a little more , if he backed off to 12lb he’d be out 160 maybe …….

    #14430
    rdeejay
    Participant

    Thanks for the comments fishforpot the reel is loaded with .40 20 pound which is a slightly better variety as the cheaper stuff is .45 with black magic .70 60 pound leader my old leader was .80 60 pound so a bit of a difference. I realise the benefits of lighter line but i’ll worry about that when i need to re spool or if the budget dictates i’ll get another reel and spool that with lighter line. I’ll show you my other casting technique some time.

    #14433
    fishforpot
    Participant

    No need for a new reel ….just get another spool for it …

    My old reels , 2 the same , had 7 spools of various line for various types of fishing ….bloody handy

    #14439
    yellowfin
    Participant

    Got some suffix xl yesterday @ rebel sport $15-300m spool 27lb-0.38. Much like fishforpot I normally use a lighter mainline to gain a bit of extra casting distance, & because I prefer a supple line(less line memory) but saw it & thought fcuk it. Mrs got me a Penn Captiva CV 8000 & Powerstick combo for xmas so had to fill the spool with something. Now I will have to get use to using an eggbeater again.
    Slightly off subject but anyone know the easiest way to shave some thickness out of the foam part of the handle on a rod? I have fairly decent sized paws, but this Penn rod just doesnt feel that comfortable to hold. My usual surfcasting weapon of choice is my prokat which is a lot slimmer rod.

    #14478
    Wilderness
    Participant

    Just from reading through these forums its easy to tell many of the people are more or less having a sword fight in a pissing contest, than casting the stated distances they believe they are. Neil is a good caster who has the technique to cast a bare sinker over 200m, he is one of NZ better casters, In my eyes top 10 of NZ and well out there. In comparison the average castor believe it or not, casts anywhere from 80m-120m (BARE SINKER ) . Casting with a bait ( longcast rig ) average size bait, you lose 40%-60% of your dry casting distance. So on a good day this means Neil is fishing with bait on average at 120m out………………..

    My point is, when guys say they can cast a DROPPER RIG with two baitss, further than one of the top casters in NZ when he is using one bait, you can pretty much tell they ether have very short legs, or count in multiples of two :roll:

    Im not a great caster, but im certainly no green horn, When guys are talking about distance it’s very simple.
    1)
    Long cast spool and .30mm nylon ( eg 6kg ) Regardless of the brand, they all work the same. The only difference between a cheep reel and an expensive one is, duriblity, bearings, and proformence under high pressure. No difference in the casting however..
    2)
    A rod that has the right action, if you want distance then you need a stiff rod. if the rod has a soft action, it wil cast smooth, but will lack punch. The stiffer the rod, the more punch and power that gets generated through the final stages of the cast.

    EXAMPLE

    soft rods.

    Kilwell SLX, GGX
    OKUMA predator, axeon
    Jarvious walkers ect… get the drift,

    mid range

    OKUMA solaris
    PEN slammer
    Kilwell QT6

    high end

    Kilwell 222
    zziplex
    reel rods
    rodworks

    This is just a very broad example

    rods like the solaris ( I’m picking this rod as many have it ) ( it is also the same blank as the slammer and the knew abu rod ) just made in a different factory.
    Now this rod is a good allrounder, capable of bringing the average joe blogs a few extra meters. If you can cast this rod to 150, dry casting you are doing very well, if you can cast it 165-170. Up grade and you are ready to get the most out of a stronger stiffer blank.

    Unless you are at the top of your game, i woulnd’t get into the whole guide spacings ect, When you can picj up a shit rod and cast it 150m dry casting thats when you should be looking at the finer points. A few peoples distant guesstimates need tweaking haha :oops:

    Just my piece.

    regards

    #14479
    yellowfin
    Participant

    I’ve got a rod from each of the ranges you’ve listed – Kilwell SLX, Okuma Solaris, Kilwell 222 and also a stiffer Kilwell 9oz that I generally only use for shark/ray fishing. I will have to make a time to cast all my rods with the same sinker and see what casts further. Would only be using sticks for markers so wouldn’t know the actual distance unless I went somewhere with marks for distance. I think I get about the same distance with the SLX as the 222, but that’s most likely because I don’t have the power to load the 222 properly.

    I honestly have no idea how far I can cast, and I don’t really care because I still catch fish.

    #14481
    Wilderness
    Participant

    The SLX and solaris will be around the same the the 222 should go much further, well it has the capiblity to any way. comments where not directed at weather you catch fish or not, more so at the reality of distance in which people cast. Everyone catch’s fish regardless of there distance Zac, but most usually strive for a few extra meters regardless of there results. What lengh rod are you using to catch your sharks Zac and what kinda size are they. :)

    #14482
    yellowfin
    Participant

    Wilderness  Just from reading through these forums its easy to tell many of the people are more or less having a sword fight in a pissing contest, than casting the stated distances they believe they are. Neil is a good caster who has the technique to cast a bare sinker over 200m, he is one of NZ better casters, In my eyes top 10 of NZ and well out there. In comparison the average castor believe it or not, casts anywhere from 80m-120m (BARE SINKER ) . Casting with a bait ( longcast rig ) average size bait, you lose 40%-60% of your dry casting distance. So on a good day this means Neil is fishing with bait on average at 120m out………………..

    My point is, when guys say they can cast a DROPPER RIG with two baitss, further than one of the top casters in NZ when he is using one bait, you can pretty much tell they ether have very short legs, or count in multiples of two :roll:

    I think you have SOME valid points & some way off, for example I do not believe I lose up to 60% of my dry casting distance by adding tackle & bait to the rig. In fact I know for a fact that I can still hit around the 100m mark give or take either way, & with a tail wind more, but very dependant on the terrain Im fishing from. I know this because a former top tournament caster & forum member gave me one very simple tip along with some very sound advice regarding casting a few years ago. That being, take a measured length of line ( i used 100m as my guide) & join it to your mainline, if you can cast anywhere near or past the knot consistantly you soon get to know if your cast was a good one & an approx casting distance. Not full proof but not a bad indicator either especially once you have taken up the slack & have it back in the holder & the knot isnt on the spool.
    I also note that other forum members state that they were dry casting with mock baits & rigs so although I havent seen them do it personally I wouldnt discount it.

    #14487
    Fishy Bishy
    Participant

    All fair comments in reasonable descriptive format, but for the remaining component in all the products that has the biggest effect on the cast……..
    [b:35misn5p]The person using it.[/b:35misn5p]
    I selected a Kilwell SLX over two offerings presented as Kilwell “200 plus” models.
    One was a factory specially built untrimmed 200 while the other was about 150mm shorter having been trimmed.
    Both 200 plus rods were much stiffer than the SLX and the longer was a real beast!
    Both hurt me badly during the cast as MY CASTING STYLE did not suit the punch these gave back if the balance, loading, weights and all other scientific mumbo jumbo didn’t hit right.
    The SLX delivered in a far more forgiving manner and was streets ahead of my ABU Missile abortion of a rod.
    So punters read and learn but most of all, TRY BEFORE YOU BUY!
    Even those that recommend Solaris may not be doing you any favours whatsoever.
    What works well for one may not do the next angler any good at all.

    I would like to point out just for the record, the statement placing Kilwell SLX in a category with Jarvis Walker is an absolutely ridiculous insult to the Kilwell product and really adds an interesting twist on several other comments made above.
    Rods like the Solaris, Slammer and “the knew ABU rod” as stated above, are not necessarily the same blank they are similar builds copied off each other by unthinking unoriginal greedy buggers who cannot be original.
    (I have first hand experience with a company that built a range of rods on this copycat principle)
    They are each made separately, more likely by different factories and differ in slight ways identifying their own characteristics. There are a heap of factories in China manufacturing rods, they don’t all come out of the same place and they will all make a product to the most intricate specification that is asked. If they are asked to produce a “copy” rod in a different binding colour or blank finish, they will. That simple!
    This is very like saying Toyota / Nissan / Kia / Daewoo / Daihatsu etc etc all looking similar in certain models so assuming they are made in the same factories just rebranded.

    Now, in terms of a comment above about reels not making any difference other than internal quality, is utter crap.
    I have stated earlier about the spool designs having a decisive impact on the delivery of line at the most crucial moment, the release. Any friction from forward spool edges will affect your cast and many reels don’t even come close to a minimised friction feature. Take a look at the Penn range of old fashioned SS Fixed spool reels with excess friction built into them as a default design feature and compare with the Daiwa Emcast or Emblem for absolute engineering brilliance.
    The front edge of the spool should not be big fat and smooth for those “smooth delivery longer casts” that is a bollox overstatement from those trying to peddle their wares and fleece your funds.(IMHO)
    The finer the leading edge the less friction it is that simple. The spool design must expel the line when released during cast in such a manner that the coils are shooting forward into that first choking guide with the least resistance.

    BUT, before this gets too far out of hand, this is mostly about enjoying your fishing and in the interests of brevity, drop at least half the science and increase your activity by 50% plus and your cast will improve with practice and your catch rate will rise due to increased water time.

    #14488
    Wilderness
    Participant

    For a start i said you will loose between 40% – 60 % Which you do, depennding on the wind and ground you cast from, as well as wading- and i would put my money where my mouth is on that. and on the other hand about reels, my comment was on long cast spools, GENUWINE long cast spool, not pen rubbish. So with that in thought, that could mean a cheep tica dolphin will cast as far as a diawa emblem pro even though there is close to $200 difference in price. The difference between these reels is the internel components as well as exteranl duriblity. You guys look to much into the finer aspects rather than keeping it simple. Long cast reel ( regardless of brand ) and a decent rod to take you there.’

    As far as grouping those rods Fishy, it was not stating there quaility, it was stating there action, I have used almost every rod on the market. The blanks may not be exact between okuma and pen, but they are that close and the proformance is identicle. And the SLX has a very soft tip action, it is NOT designed for distance, that is a miss conception . While the action of the SLX is very smooth and a very nice rod for everyday fishing, it is very simular to the action of a jarvious walker even though the jarvious has a very ugly cast to it. It was more pointing out the ratings of kilwells rods through that list from soft to heavy.

    #14489
    yellowfin
    Participant

    Wilderness

    #14491
    Fishy Bishy
    Participant

    To quote the Wilderness member…
    “So with that in thought, that could mean a cheep tica dolphin will cast as far as a diawa emblem pro even though there is close to $200 difference in price. The difference between these reels is the internel components as well as exteranl duriblity. You guys look to much into the finer aspects rather than keeping it simple.”

    I reiterate too, you are still talking garbage.
    There is absolutely no comparison between the Tica reel you mention and the Emblem Pro, What planet are you reporting from again???
    If you are happy with a reasonable reel so be it but to compare against the vastly superior engineering of the Emblem, wake up and shake yourself.
    You are drawing a similar comparison of a BMW 325i and a Daewoo Nubira!!
    One is simply made (emphasis simply….) and the other is the result of years of refined engineering, providing balance, performance durability, strength and integrity. The Emblem will still be around when the Tica corrodes and falls off your rod, which will be long after all those cheap bearings seize up incredibly while you play out your best fish.
    A point you may not be aware of is that Daiwa was on the NZ market well before Penn was a consideration even, that long ago. The engineering far surpasses most other brands and compares to the higher echelon of performance reels.
    All these other reels sporting fancy name brands, are cheap reproductions made in China in nearly every case, and predominantly comprise copied designs and specifications glorified by countless un-necessary ball bearings then are marketed beyond belief as the next silver bullet that surpasses all predecessors!

    Now, in closing, you suggest keeping it all simple, remember you started all this outlandish commentary about the finer details of rods and reels and took it far and beyond simplicity.
    Jeez I wish fishing were again a happy simplistic sport where it didn’t matter what we all fished with, so long as we had a great time, had some larfs, caught some great fish and were able to go about it all with minimal expense.
    Oh by the way Wilderness, my Emblem Pro 5500 cost me $NZ120 from a guy who had a new toy on the radar and sure I was lucky to get first crack at it but, it was only going to cost me $US134 to bring one in from the States. (about $NZ225 delivered)
    That isn’t expensive IMHO unless you compare to Warehouse brand reels, I guess that will be next on the agenda. :roll:

    #14492
    Captain Hook
    Participant

    Ive been fishing for a day or three now and well remember names like Alvey, Dam, Luxor, Mitchell, ABU, Penn, all quality reels of the 1950s and 60s and made in Europe, Scandinavia or America. Cheaper reels like Intrepid and Argus were available, then along came a large range of reels made in Japan. Japan was industrialising after the war and this was when Japan was known for the equilivant of some of the cheap Chinese goods we are seeing these days and earned the reputation of being cheap and nasty.
    Amongst these cheap reels of Japanese origin was Diawa. Although it was cheap the range of reels covered a large spectrum and while there were cheap kids reels there were also some higher priced models almost as good as the brands mentioned above.
    I worked for a sporting goods wholesaler and fishing equipment manufacturer at the time and we started importing the Diawa range.
    With the above information in mind I ask the question, on what basis Fishy Billy do you make the claim? and I quote,
    “A point you may not be aware of is that Daiwa was on the NZ market well before Penn was a consideration even, that long ago.” (Refer my opening sentence).
    And please excuse my ignorance but when did they start making Diawa reels in America.
    Like most goods of Japanese origin they have progressed and improved over the years and now manufacture some very fine products.
    I am not debating which is the best reel on the market but your source of information.
    I agree however that fishing should be fun and a pastime that can be enjoyed by young and old.

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