- 14/11/2012 at 10:08 am #7249
I have a 4M GRP runabout with 25PH Mercury. I have subsequently purchased a 3HP Yamaha Aux and now a rise/fall outboard bracket.
The bracket is definitely overkill as it can handle up to 20HP motors – but they don’t come along that often 2nd hand on TradeMe and I intend replacing the springs with ones not so strong. The bracket has 2 screw holes at the top and 2 at the bottom for mounting it to the transom. The 2 top holes are fine, I can drill through the transom and have access to both ends of the bolts.
The 2 holes at the bottom though are difficult. The boat has side benches that are moulded into the hull. They are fully enclosed – ie the ‘seat’ is moulded to the side of the hull and it then bends down and is moulded to the bottom of the hull. The seat runs to the transom and presumably provides floatation in a capsize. Where I need to drill the bottom holes – they will exit the transom inside this sealed area – so I can not get access to that end of the bolt.
Does anybody have advice on how I can secure the bottom bolts?
The transom is about 6CM thick. It is GRP on the outside and inside and I presume has a wooden ‘core’ – but I really do not know until I take a drill to it.
I think that under power from the 3HP aux, it probably doesn’t even need the bottom bolts, or when on main power with the bracket raised. I think though that on the trailer/road the bumps etc would put ‘upward’ stress on the bracket and it could probably do with the lower bolts installed. Any thoughts? Boat is for lake and (very) inshore use.
The faces of the bracket that rests to the transom are each 22CM tall by 5CM wide. The center of the top hole from the top is 5CM down.
Thanks Gerald15/11/2012 at 5:57 pm #21915Fishy BishyParticipant
Just a thought, a rather innovative one anyway, you can get hatch covers, round screw in ones from boat shops and they aren’t that expensive.
Cut a hole, fit your bracket and then fit the screw-in hatch cover.
These are the same as seen on kayaks for stowage access.
Bonus for you is you would then be able to dry-stow stuff in there too!
http://www.absolutemarine.co.nz/products/?id=360715/11/2012 at 9:24 pm #21918
Hi Bishy, that’s a great idea. Just have to stop myself from getting a too bigger hatch and weakening the seat! Now to inform my wife that the boat needs another couple of hundred $s ‘investment’ I’ll need to do both sides.15/11/2012 at 9:57 pm #21919Fishy BishyParticipant
Just do one at a time out of petty cash, needs no explanation, cos it must be done! LOL!
There are some low priced ones available, black ones as I recall, or this for an idea….
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Storage-Hatch-B … e5&vxp=mtr17/11/2012 at 12:04 am #21924smokin’ joeParticipant
depending on the thickness of the fibreglass, could riv-nuts be used ?
the bottom bolts are locators and the top ones take the weight.17/11/2012 at 10:54 pm #21931Yo carped onParticipant
Or you could just get a proper boat!19/11/2012 at 10:36 pm #21946
Oi Oi – nothing wrong with the boat. Going by your user name, you should fish for ‘proper’ fish! Sitting by a lake with stocked, fat, lazy, ugly carp using rediculous baits and electronic bite detectors just to reel a fish in for the 100th time in its life and put it back after congratulating yourself on your ‘undeniable’ abilities – not much sport or fun there. Don’t diss my boat – at least not until you’ve seen its name19/11/2012 at 10:46 pm #21947
The riv-nuts idea sounds quick and simple – transom’s about 6CM thick. I do like the idea of the access hatch though – will give extra storage and dry. I’ve had a look around TradeMe and there are some for sale on there, just deciding if water-tight is sufficient or whether I should really put air-tight ones in. Water-tight tend to be bigger and cheaper while air-tight would retain the floatation capabilities – in the ‘unlikely event’. Got some jobs to do around the house first – then will sort it.
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